We published a hands-on guide in November 2023 about chloasma (melasma) and hair removal. If you see brown patches and want to remove hair without making them worse, follow a few simple rules: protect from sun, avoid irritation, and test before you commit to a method.
Chloasma happens when certain triggers tell melanocytes to overproduce pigment. Common triggers are sun exposure, hormone changes, and skin inflammation. That last one matters for hair removal: any method that causes repeated tiny injuries or burns can lead to darker patches called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen SPF 30 or higher every day. Reapply every two hours if you are outdoors. Do a patch test for 48 hours on an out-of-the-way spot before using a new product or method. Stop anything that leaves redness, stinging, or darkening on the test area. If a method repeatedly irritates your skin, switch to something gentler.
Shaving is low risk when done right. Soften hair with warm water, use a clean sharp razor, shave with the grain, and apply a soothing moisturizer after. Avoid dry shaving and avoid rubbing the area aggressively.
Depilatory creams dissolve hair and are convenient. Patch test them for 48 hours and rinse them off immediately if you feel burning. These creams have strong chemicals — if they cause even mild irritation, they can trigger pigment.
Sugaring and gentle waxing can work if done by a skilled technician. Sugaring often sticks to hair rather than skin, so it can be less irritating. Still, repeated waxing on already sensitive patches can cause darkening, so limit how often you wax the same spot.
Tweezing and epilators pull hair from the root and can cause tiny traumas. If your chloasma flares after plucking, switch to shaving or a gentler option until your skin calms down.
Laser and IPL can offer longer-term hair reduction, but they need a pro who understands pigment issues. For darker skin tones, certain lasers like long-pulse Nd:YAG are often safer. A trained dermatologist will pick settings to lower the risk of post-inflammatory pigment.
Topical pigment treatments such as azelaic acid, kojic acid, or tretinoin are commonly used under medical advice. Hydroquinone is effective for many people but should be guided by a dermatologist. Avoid starting strong actives right before or right after hair removal — wait until any redness or sensitivity is gone.
Practical final tips: always pair hair removal with sun protection, do a 48-hour patch test, and give your skin time to heal between procedures. If you see new or worsening dark spots after a method, stop and consult a dermatologist. The November post walks through step-by-step tests and product ideas if you want more detail.
